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Roskilde, Copenhagen and Fredriksborg - Andrew - 2008
My second trip to Denmark was also my second work trip to a Conference. This was quite a small conference in Roskilde, a few miles west of Copenhagen. I stayed again in Copenhagen, but took the opportunity to have a look around Roskilde whilst I was there.
Roskilde is one of the most historic towns of Denmark and like Copenhagen can be found on Zealand island. Roskilde is centred around the ancient Cathedral which dominates the town from the seaward side. Oddly enough when approaching from the railway station the Cathedral is rather hidden amongst the other buildings.
Giant Jars in Roskilde
Passing by the giant jar sculpture, you walk down a pedestrianised street to the Stændertorvei – the market square which is the focus of the city centre. The very impressive Town Hall also houses the Tourist Information who will give you information about the two main attractions in the town, the Cathedral and the Viking Ship Museum.
The Main Square in Roskilde
The Cathedral sits just behind Stændertorvei in a quaint little cobbled back street. It’s bulk is difficult to appreciate when approaching it, but when you are right underneath it and crane your head back to look up at its twin towers you realise that this is a Cathedral every bit as large as the other great Cathedrals of Europe.
Roskilde Cathedral
Inside Roskilde Cathedral
The interior of the Cathedral has a typically cool Scandinavian feel, although it does house some particularly bulky monuments to the Danish Kings who are traditionally crowned and buried here.
Statue in Roskilde Cathedral
From the Cathedral it is a pleasant shady walk down to the Harbour area to the other big attraction of Roskilde. This is the Viking Ship Museum (Vikingeskibsmuseet). The Roskilde Fjord (Denmark’s only true Fjord) was vital in the Viking period and in order to make it more defendable at some stage a series of ships were deliberately wrecked across the entrance to the Fjord. During the 1962 these were excavated from the Fjord-bed in the same way that the Mary Rose was raised from the Solent. These boats include some of the best preserved and largest of all Viking boats ever found.
The Viking Ship Museum, Roskilde
Another view of the Viking Ship Museum, Roskilde
They are set out in an ultra-modern museum which overlooks the Fjord, set up on stilts and with walkways all around you get every view imaginable of these awesome craft. It doesn’t take much to imagine Svein Forkbeard and his men careering across the North Sea to rape and pillage the English coast in boats exactly like these.
Modern Viking Prows, Roskilde
The Vikings Are Coming!! Roskilde
In the end, you don’t need to imagine too much as the boats have been replicated exactly and now take tourists around the Fjord. My timing was poor and I missed the boats, so I had to content myself with seeing the great square sails coming towards me and imagining the terror this sight would have held for some poor Saxon in Northumbria a thousand years before.
Oh, perhaps not
A brief stopover in Copenhagen
The Palace Hotel, Copenhagen - where I stayed
Back to Nyhavn, Copenhagen
That night I returned to Copenhagen and encouraged by the excellent weather – which I didn’t get much of last time I was here – I had a wander down to Nyhavn to find food. This time it was sunny on the “Sunnyside” of Nyhavn and the multi-coloured buildings along the harbour looked lovely in the dying afternoon light. I remembered at this point why I’d liked Copenhagen so much and settled down to a very nice pasta meal before heading back to my lodgings at the Palace Hotel on the Main Square.
Actually Sunny on Sunnyside, Nyhavn, Copenhagen
Sunset in Copenhagen,
After another day at the Conference I had a spare morning before I flew home so I travelled north on Zealand to Hillerød. Whilst it seemed a pleasant enough town my main objective here was Frederiksborg Slot. A huge, rambling Danish castle-cum-manor house which stands by a big artificial lake to one side of the town centre.
Frederiksborg Slot
Another view of Frederiksborg Slot
The walk along the lake approaching Frederiksborg Slot is grand indeed, particularly on such a warm day, and the Castle reflected in the water is one which, in any other country, would be internationally known. This being Denmark, that country of quiet splendour, only a few people were visiting which made my tour around the Castle all the more pleasant.
Fountain outside Frederiksborg Slot
Detail of the Fountain, Frederiksborg Slot
In the main courtyard is a particularly elaborate fountain dating to the mid-1700s and guarding the drawbridge are two great carved lions of the same period. Despite its looks of a manor house, this is a true Castle, built defensively and with all the appropriate accoutrements of fortification.
A different fountain view, Frederiksborg Slot
Danish Lion, Frederiksborg Slot
Interior of Frederiksborg Slot
Inside the main building is, however, full of the most elaborate decoration. One room in particular, the Riddersalen (Knights' Hall), impressed with its intricate and colourful carved and painted ceiling.
Amazing Carved and Painted Ceiling, Frederiksborg Slot
Detail of the ceiling, Frederiksborg Slot
Around the back of the Castle are large formal gardens which include a cascade of fountains tumbling down to the lake. Both Castle and grounds were a ruin until rennovated by J.C. Jacobsen, boss of Carling, who restored it and granted it to the nation.
Frederiksborg Slot Gardens
I left Frederiksborg Slot a very happy bunny and went to have another excellent meal before heading back to Copenhagen and on to the airport, Denmark having won me over once again.
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